A road through the Loess Hills and the stories that led me home.
Before there was a collection of essays called The Women of the Spring Valley Loop, there was a road.
A gravel road winding through the Loess Hills of southwest Iowa. A place where family stories, local history, and childhood memories became so intertwined that I can no longer separate one from the other.
This essay tells the story of the Spring Valley Loop itself: Rocky Road, Clementine, Henry Chapman, and the people who settled this corner of Iowa long before I arrived. It is also the story of how a place can shape a family for generations.
Every story in this collection begins here.
The Spring Valley Loop
There is a stretch of road in southwest Iowa now called the Spring Valley Loop.
It did not have that name when I was a child.
Back then, it was simply the road that led to the houses where my family lived and had always lived, winding through the Loess Hills of Fremont County past gravel driveways, weathered barns, windbreaks, and fields that seemed to roll endlessly toward the horizon.
As a child, I called it the Rocky Road because I did not yet know the word gravel.
I only knew the sound of it beneath the tires.
The grownups would turn off the highway and suddenly the smooth hum of pavement became the sharp crackling rhythm of loose stone. Dust rose behind the car in the summer. In winter, snow drifted across the road in pale ribbons and everyone slowed carefully around curves as though the land itself required respect.
At the time, I did not think of it as a place carrying generations of history.
I thought it was simply where my people were.
Long before I understood inheritance, I understood geography.
Years later, the county officially named the route the Spring Valley Loop.
No one loved the name more than Grammax.
She delighted in it.
Spring Valley Loop.
She said it the way someone says the title of a favorite novel.
Perhaps because the name transformed an ordinary rural road into something almost poetic. Something worthy of remembrance.
But maybe it had always been that way.
Not merely a road, but a kind of inheritance system.
A loop connecting generations through ordinary life.
Gardens. Recipes. Stories. Arguments. Summer suppers. Babies passed from one set of arms to another. Quiet acts of endurance. The particular humor of practical Midwestern people.
Only later did I begin to understand how deep the roots of that inheritance actually went.
The family farm where my mom and Aunt Nancy were raised had belonged to our family for generations. Long before I existed, long before they ran through those fields as girls, the land had been acquired by Henry James Chapman and his wife, Clementine, after they moved to Iowa from Kentucky.
Family stories say that Henry was an army post substitute for a man in a neighboring town who had been conscripted to fight for the Union Army during the Civil War. Henry was paid three hundred dollars to take the post in the man’s place, and the money was used to pay for the farm.
Three hundred dollars bought the land that would shape generations of our family.
Henry never came home from the war.
As a child riding the Rocky Road in the backseat of my parents’ car, I knew nothing about any of this.
I only knew the farm.
The barn. The corn crib. The picnic tree. The fields. The gravel drives. The women standing in kitchens talking while supper cooked. The cherry tree and the rhubarb patch. The certainty that people there would always know my name.
Children inherit stories emotionally long before they understand them historically.
Only later do we realize that ordinary childhoods are built atop invisible foundations.
A man dies in a war. A widow survives. Land is purchased. Children are raised. Gardens are planted. Recipes are handed down. Women teach daughters how to move through the world. Families gather around tables decade after decade, rarely thinking about how fragile the entire chain of events actually was.
History becomes ordinary life.
And ordinary life becomes memory.
The women I write about now all lived somewhere along that emotional landscape.
Grammax in her pith helmet. Grandma Ruth with her clip-on earrings and carefully sifted powdered sugar. My mom standing straight and tall each morning as she stepped out into the world.
At the time, I thought they were simply individual women living individual lives.
I understand now they were carrying an entire world forward.
And somehow, without ever quite meaning to, they handed that world to me.
The road is still there.
Most of the people are not.
The farm is smaller now. Trees have grown taller. Grandma Ruth’s house no longer looks neat and tidy. The world itself feels louder and faster than the one that existed when I rode the Rocky Road as a child.
But I still carry the map of it inside me.
Not just the physical roads.
The emotional ones.
I thought it was simply the road to the farm.
I understand now it was the road into myself.
This essay is part of The Women of the Spring Valley Loop, a collection of essays about inheritance, memory, and the women who made me.
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